God knows how many days I would have been at it and 'wondering' if I got all the timing marks dead on. Temporarily lock the tensioner in place. Take the timing chain cover off, look for a wire just in front of two pullies, closest to you. I have a 2003 Kia Sedona that wouldn't start 50 miles from anyplace in North-woods Maine. Your manual pays for itself over and over again.
The second I put the tensioner into place with the lock pin still installed, the fireside right bank sprockets continue to spring off and slip which is frustrating me. Wait a few minutes and. During installation of the belt the firewall right bank rolled off the marks and you are corret I am fighting the compression. I know of people that have gone 70 to 80k and got away with it, but that does not mean you will. And if you ever do hear of some people giving you real-life stories on how long this particular engine has lasted with the current timing belt or for that matter, when some of them have broken , please share that with all of us. Unlike a book, your online manual takes up no shelf space, and it gets updated whenever new information is released by the manufacturer. I'll have the money in about a month and I don't really use the car to go anywhere except from the house to the commuter rail station about 4-mi each way and a once-a-week drive into Seattle about 50-mi round trip to take care of business.
The manual is too vague on this install. Is there any low cost way to get my car run good as new again--? It, too, is a powertrain item. No more eye-popping bills at the repair shop! Its only been 3 years so far, I sure wouldn't worry about it until 5 years. I have tried this shop manual method but cannot turn the crank shaft at all. To answer your question about miles, once you hit 60k, it is a crap shoot and possible warranty issue.
Anyone replace the belt themselves and have success? That same engine is the one used in the Santa Fe and in the 2002-'05 Kia Sedona. I would need six sets of hands, two just to hold the sprockets in line while I install the tensioner. Initially, however, I had serious concerns when I learned of the similarities of the dual camshaft design to that of the other engines which do have timing belt issues. It is an easy job with the timing belt replacement, but a very difficult and expensive one by itself. One trick I have found is not only do you have to take the hydrolic tensioner off, but it makes it easier if you also loosen the manual tensioner right by the hydrolic one.
I had done this job on my 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible 2. Won't cost anything, easy to do, might just work, you should do the ground wire in any event. Good question, Carl, and one I have been in search of myself. If the belt is too loose in front one of the cams will spin to one tooth off. I just loved how it ride over the years that I owned without any issues.
Some not-so-obvious things such as the alternator must be removed or moved to access all the necessary hardware. The price of the 60k mile service seems very high also. The tierod ends are usually easy to replace. Thanks, I will add another ground to the battery see if that helps. Select your year to find out more. If it doesn't break, then you don't need to worry about it. A pair of Vicegrips would help you grip the rod.
The mechanic will literally have the pump in his hands to change the timing belt. Just get a piece of wire to wrap around the thread or spray paint and mark the position on the rodend on the rod thread. Switching to new ones enhances Engine performance and proficiently minimizes the risk the worn out component damaging other car components. It is smart to do both at the same time as the labor cost is the same. This is critical as you can't rotate any shaft independently as you will bend a valve, if you feel any resistance you may be touching a valve, best to do any rotating with plugs out so you are not fighting compression, all timing marks must be aligned as in pic, I have highlighted alignment points for you to see clearly, let me know exactly what stage you are at, regarding timing point alignment. Or should each sprocket be alined to a timing mark? Any one out there have any tricks or tips for the reset of timing.
That price seems a bit steep to me. My sensor went bad after 3 days from purchasing the vehicle from a dealership, they wouldn't help me since there was no warranty. Making It Easy Getting the repair info you need has never been easier. Do I need to reflash the computer--? My decision was to do this job myself or pay a mechanic. If you bought the car new I'd get the timing belt replaced to preserve your 100,000 10 year warrenty. Air conditioner doesn't work, emits a smell, blocked vents, weak air flow, heater doesn't produce heat, etc.
Both mine and your manual show The right bank Firewall Left 7. They were not when I open the covers up. Just do not know enough about this particular engine to comment. I changed the spark plugs about 20,000 miles ago and went with the best as I had to remove the intake manifold. All Replacement brand items are backed by 1-year, unlimited-mileage warranty. I tried just to clamp the new belt onto the sprockets already with no joy there.